Erin arrived in Japan on a Saturday evening, 6pm. We took a coach bus from the Hiroshima airport into the city where we could catch a late train for the two or so hour ride back to Yanai station. Erin had been travelling for nearly 24 hours by then, and I had walked all over Hiroshima that afternoon, so we were both plenty tired. We left the platform at Yanai just as it started raining a fairly dismal mountainy mist. Here, though, we`re not in the mountains, so it`s not that refreshing cool of a mountain mist. It`s something more like the humidity has gotten so thick in the stiff night air that it finally just chrystalizes into this gellatious myst that just sits there in the air and oozes overy your body as you push your way through it. The feeling is that your mind knows it must be cool, it`s night and it`s raining, but your body is on overdrive to stay ahead of the heat that`s pressing down on you. It can be hard to handle.
But, combined, the two of us had eight days of experience of living in Japan, which, as a foreigner, is the equivalent of being about two and a half years old. And two and half year olds can`t call for a cab. It`s a fifteen minute walk from the station to our second floor apartment, in Sunheights, but I`d never done it in conditions quite like these. We start out and knew almost immediately that this isn`t going to work. Erin had everything she was going to live with for the next year(s) there with her in her baggage, and as it was getting wet we realized we were in for a long haul.
Miraculously, a lone taxi appeared on the side of the street we had turned down and we began waving our arms frantically. As it often is when you find you need it most, fate was on our side as the cab slowed to a crawl and whipped a u-turn to come to a stop at the karaoke bar now accross the street from us. We clambered over our wet, sweaty, tired selves and our baggage to cross the street and get to the cab. Just as I got to the door, a smartly dressed woman, possibly in her sixties, staggered out of the backseat of the vehicle, mumbling in Japanese, paid the driver, and staggered into the karaoke bar for another round. We hopped in her place and in our best two and a half year old Japanenglish told the driver `Sunheights. Uuuuuuuhhhh, hmmmmm, sumimasen, sumimasen, ummmmmm, Sunheights?` I remembered I had brought a map with me that my predecessor had left, which had my apartment highlighted on it, so I pulled it out and we were whisked away for the short drive to our new home, like lost children at the mall, in the care of whatever passer-by happens to stop and ask what`s the matter.
There`s been a story like this everyday for us here in Japan, with nary an element missing. There`s always the oppressive heat; the somewhat desperate, impossible situation; the fortunate twist of fate; the shred of dark humor; and, so far, the unlikely satisfactory resolution, though sometimes lately we`ve even had some joyful successes (maybe these are becoming more common). I`ve been here now for 25 consecutive days, Erin for 19, which seems like it should qualify for the record for world`s longest emotional roller coaster, until you realize that some folks are going into their third year at this gig.
Unlikely as this may seem at this point, I`m not saying I don`t like it here. To the contrary, I`m in love with this adventure. To some degree, we knew what we were getting into when we signed up for this gig. That is, we knew we were getting into something that we knew absolutely nothing about. Still, you expect a roller coaster ride when you make that decision, and that`s exactly what we`re getting.
I guess the point that I want to make right now is that this country, these people, this geography, these streets, the menus, the currency, the service, the norms, the taboos, the culture, the physics of this place are more different on the whole than anything I could have possibly ever imagined before I stepped off that plane in Narita International Airport and had my first thick, steamy breath of (this was `air-conditioned`) Japanese air. And they're different in a way that is even different than anything I've ever experienced. Even the things that are the same are still different, sometimes mind-meltingly different. I don`t know if there`s anything you can do to prepare for that. Sure, I read some books (three or four, I think) about ``The Japanese,`` so I had an idea of when to bow for what, how the alphabet was contstructed, who was in charge, how I should act when and how not to stand out like an American. But no book or lesson or dialogue could ever prepare a person for how utterly foreign you feel from the moment you take that first breath of Japanese air. It`s like the entire country is in on some secret that I`ll never be able to understand.
You can find all kinds of writing about this in literature about Japan. People say it has to do with the island`s historical isolation, it`s geography has basically encouraged it`s growth into the antithesis of a melting-pot, so that there`s this entrenched, unbending concept of us vs. them, insider and outsider, moreso than is natural in every culture. That sounds weird to me, but it`s the best way I can make sense of it right now. Also, that is the very reason for the JET program at all. Someone in a position of power realized that the lack of inter-cultural understanding in Japan posed a lot of problems in the face of rapid globalization, and the JET program was one method developed to encourage internationalization. I can only imagine what it must have been like for those first ALTs, back in the 80s, placed in towns and schools where no one, literally no one they came in contact with, had ever had any exposure to people of a different race, culture, or even background. This is a cakewalk compared to that, and it`s still really hard.
I also want to make note of this experience that I`ve been having of feeling somewhat guilty for being here at all. Like I said, I feel like about a two and half year old here, with no parents and no one who`s responsible for me, so completley cut off from the ``grown up world`` of insiders. So I`m constantly imposing on random strangers for favors, and I have no idea what it means when I do that, or how to appropriately thank them, or even if they mind or not. I`m just so very cut off from the entire country`s shared reality. It is really, really isolating. And it`s something you can`t prepare for until you`re here, and by then it`s too late. The thing that I feel bad about is the fact that I saw that problem coming before I came here, but I didn`t worry about it very much, telling myself that things would just take care of themselves. I feel like this is a very western, probably very American attitude. That I`m somehow entitled to impose on other cultures and have them take care of me, no matter how ill-prepared I am to engage in meaningul dialogue with them.
In reality, this is probably where a lot the isolation that Erin and I feel is coming from. We came here with an attitude that we could "get by" because of our "industrious," much like we did for a time in Turkey. Indeed, we'll get by, and we'll thrive here, but it's painfully more evident here that when you're getting by it's not because of your industriousness. It's because someone is going out of their way to help you out. And in a country that values things operating according to "the norm" so highly, this can be a really stressful thing to do. In Turkey asking for help was a great way to get involved in the culture, here asking for help is more often than not accompanied with a feeling of being cut-off from the culture.
At the same time, people are just people, no matter where you go. Sometimes I can remember that, and the diffferences don't seem that intense. The differences then seem interesting and exciting. Hopefully this blog will be able to document the story of how we came to get more and more comfortable with these differences that seem so confounding right now.
All that being said, we are getting our footing here. The countryside is stunningly beautiful, and we`re short train rides away from a multitude of nice beaches. We can go to the grocery store now, and we know what are good prices and what are not so good prices.
PLUS, great news, we`ve finally got our apartment arranged so that it actually feels like a home, instead of a place that we`re staying in, where the person who did my job before me used to stay. I`ve learned that, for me, a comfortable, well thought out home is FIRST for feeling comfortable in general. It feels like we'll get more comfortable living in Yanai, Yamaguchi, Japan as a result of having a comfortable home to come back to. We`ll get up pictures of it online soon. The problem with the apartment was these tatami rooms. Our place is actually really big by Japanese standards, two tatami rooms, another room, a kitchen, dining room, a bathroom with a separate shower room, and an entry room. But we didn`t know what the rooms were for. We`d never decorated a tatami room, so we didn`t know how they were supposed to be used. Tatami is realatively fragile so you`re not really supposed to just pile furniture on it. When we got here it was used as a closet, and there was a western bed in the non-tatami room that is attached to the kitchen. We put the desk in it and tried to use it as an office, but that didn`t work. Turns out, tatami rooms are used for sleeping in on futon mats! So we got rid of our western bed and I`ll let the pictures explain the rest. Bottom line, we both really like it and just spent last night feeling quite relieved and comfortable about our new place. That was honestly the first time I`d felt completely comfortable since I got here.
That`s all from my end. It intense but it`s nothing to worry about. We`re as safe as we`ve ever been in our lives (small town Japan is like 1950s rural America, crime wise) and we have generally been enjoying ourselves. We`ve made a lot of trips and have a lot more in the works. We`re planning on buying some nice road bikes as soon as we can save up enough, because we have some beautiful countryside to explore and could ride to many of the beaches near us with suitable bikes. Also, Japan`s roads and drivers are all very bike friendly. Japan is definitely worth a visit and I definitely feel like what I`m doing here is worth all the effort it is taking. Plus, so far I do really enjoy my job a lot. I`ve been to two different summer camps and just enjoy teaching immensely. Plus, the teaching is about as easy as it gets for me, since I only have to fill in the blanks of other teacher`s lesson plans or come up with games, and Japanese kids seem pretty easy to keep entertained. It`s a long leap from kindergarten and public schools in the states, that`s for sure... For example, it`s been summer break since I got here and most of the teachers have come into school for eight hours every day, and most of the students still get here by 8AM to take part in club activities or various other school sponsored events, or just to hang out in the teacher`s room... It`s not like summer break in the states, that`s for sure.
One other thing, if you`ve possibly made it this far (sorry this is so long):
Here`s our address and our location on the map:
Sunheights 202
4711-19
Yanai-shi, Yamaguchi-ken
742-0021
If you feel like sending stuff, it would be awesome if I could get small, cheap 'America/Indiana/Indianapolis' memorabilia. For example, sheets of "Indy500" stickers or something along those lines. I meant to pack more stuff like that but never got around to it, and they're really useful for handing out in class and to general people I meet.
There`s obviously so much more to write, and so many stories to tell. Hopefully Erin will fill in a lot of them when she posts later. But those are my reflections from the first month.