MARCH CONTINUED
If you don`t know anything about Okinawa it`s history is very interesting but unfortunately also, very sad. This Island of the Ryukyu people has been fought over for many many years by the Japanese, Chinese, and currently Americans. They, like Hawaii were taken over and controlled by Japan and still today stand very much outside the mainland cultural norm. It was a very different place than the mainland. The architecture, people, food, and even some of the language were all very different and it was very much like we had gone to another country. I assume much like Hawaii must feel to a lot of main lander Americans.
Isaac and I had a blast. It was the first vacation we have taken together alone since Istanbul and even then we were surrounded by new friends. This trip was very much like a honey moon, and after all the topsy turvy emotions of surviving winter in little Yanai we really needed this. We spent a few days in Naha, the main city, and travelled around for a few days to the northern part of the island. We rented a car for the northern travel but for our time in the city and the south we rented a motorcycle. I know some of you can only imagine how flipping big Isaac`s smile was on those days. :o)
We spent a few days camping on the beach with some locals. It was free but at a small price: for one there were no toilets or showers but also no bushes or trees to squat secretly in because the beach was just across from a town park and a bunch of well used tennis courts. The other thing that was a little creepy but mostly entertaining was a very very old man who was apparently living in his van- not something you see in Japan......ever.
This van was very old, rusted, beat up, and looked like one day 20 years ago the man pulled into this location and just, never left. Inside, from what we could see, was a ton of junk. Weird junk, stuff we couldn`t understand why he even had it. And the most surprising of all this was the huge flat screen TV he had set up inside. It was a strange contrast to the rest of the van and it`s junk and well, very funny. It got a little creepy when on the second day Isaac and I saw the old man come out of his van with a toddler on his hip. She was a cute little girl, short black hair, a little bathing suite, a white sun hat and a small yellow t-shirt on. He was very sweetly holding her and taking her out to the ocean to play. They got in the water, all the while the old man was holding her and talking to her, and occasionally would give her a sweet pat on the head. The old man, by the way, was always seen wearing a wet suit and his hair flew around on the top of his head like strings in the wind.
Well, Isaac and I had many thoughts about this at first: Wow, he has a little girl. Do you think it is his granddaughter? I dunno- maybe the little girl is from that other group of campers just across the way, maybe they know each other. Hmmmm, but I have never seen her before. Maybe they live in that van? That`s so weird. Why would an old man be living with a toddler......where did he get her? Where`s the mom? hmmm.....that`s weird. But she`s pretty cute, oh look he`s getting her feet wet.....so cute!
We watched them in the water quietly. Then the old man brought the little little girl onto the beach where, while holding her on his hip, they walked around looking at things on the ground that had washed up. The old man would point and then say something to the little girl. I imagined he was saying something like: "Oh look there, it`s a pretty seashell." Or "What color is that? Can you see it?" As the old man approached us, walking along, pointing here and there, chatting it up with his granddaughter I suddenly notice something a little strange about the toddler. She hadn`t really moved her head.....come to think of it, I hadn`t seen her move her head at all. Wait......I take a closer look and suddenly in a loud panicked whisper, "Isaac! That`s a life size DOLL!"
Isaac didn`t believe it at first, and I didn`t want to believe it either. It had seemed very very real and the human interactions the man was having with it led us to believe undoubtedly that it was in fact a young child. Be it weird that he had a child at all, we had no doubt enter our mind from the beginning that it was a real little girl. But as we watched slowly and carefully we saw clearly that the real girl had become a giant plastic doll that the old man had apparently dressed up and who was possibly his only companion on this stretch of beach. We don`t know for sure, but I think that the doll must have washed up on shore, possibly her entire ensemble had washed up, along with the rest of the junk in his van. Needless to say, I had a hard time falling asleep that night.
The next day we went on a very depressing search for a new camp site further south, but no luck. We drove for 6 hours.....that was a bad day. We couldn`t find a camp site, they were all closed or no longer in service. Finally after a full day of sitting and driving and panicking about where we would sleep we decided to ask a beautiful resort hotel if they happened to have an affordable (hah!) room available that night. I knew when we walked in that it would be nearly impossible to stay there for anything less than 200 bucks a night, it was beach front, all the employees wore beautiful suits and the lobby was filled with orchids. I don`t know why we even went in there- it was probably just a delirious act, like seeing water in a desert. We just wanted a place to sleep so bad......
Thanks to God and Jesus and Buddah, we got a room for TWO nights for only 175 TOTAL!!! We were amazed, thrilled, ecstatic, and all those adjectives. We couldn`t believe it. The room was amazing, beach front, balcony looking over the most blue teal ocean I had ever seen. Buffet breakfast included......a giant bath, a shower......it was heavenly.
The rest of the trip we went on some hikes that were famous for WWII fighting and fox holes. We went to a waterfall and peace park. We also went to a big cape at the northern tip of the mountain. All of it was amazing. We learned a lot about the history of WWI and II in that region of the world, not something you hear a lot about on our end of things in the west. WWII, in America especially, is filled with horror stories about Europe and Nazi Germany, which is sprinkled with the events of Pearl Harbor and a slight mention of our mass genocide in Nagasaki and Hiroshima. But we don`t hear much about what happened in other parts of Asia, what happened leading up to the A-Bombs and Pearl Harbor. All in all it was very interesting- I had no idea American soldiers stormed these beaches in Okinawa, and that many and most on BOTH sides were slaughtered.
Currently Okinawa has a huge U.S. Military base that has become a very controversial issue. Many want the base gone. And some, obviously the US, want the base to stay. So still the territory is being fought over and the people doing the fighting- the US and Japan- aren`t even the true owners of the Island. I recommend reading up on it, very interesting stuff.
All in all, the trip was very interesting and fun.
After we returned the lovely Keiko Mantani organized a family outing to a small mountain village called Tsuano in the northern side of Yamaguchi prefecture. We stayed at a Japanese Ryokan style Inn. We ate amazing Japanese food, and we even got to make our own sweet mochi for dessert! Mochi is hot rice you pound down into a doughy like small and fill with delicious sweet things.....like sweet beans and chestnuts. Yummy! That weekend was so fun to spend with the kids and Keiko. They are such a sweet and fun family and Isaac and I had a blast.
APRIL
We kicked off April with an Easter party. Thanks to all of you who sent packages. They were amazing. Filled with candy and all kinds of goodies! It was really fun for the kids too. Most American holidays that are celebrated here with other ALT English Teachers are Christmas, Halloween and Thanksgiving. But never Easter so most, even the adults, had never had an Easter Egg hunt or decorated Easter Eggs. It makes sense, being that Easter is a more religious holiday. But we didn`t focus on that, we focused only on sugar and eggs and SPRING TIME! It was fun! Thanks again everyone.
With April came the infamous Cherry Blossoms! Japanese Cherry Blossom viewing or Hanami parties are really popular in Japan. It`s like the one time in the year that the Japanese people act a little wild. It`s hard to explain exactly what I mean without being here. The Japanese culture, and therefore most of it`s people, tend to be what we Americans would call a little nervous, cautious, polite, quiet, normal, low-key, serious, a little uptight, pleasant. And basically NOT like most Americans. So when people get drunk and yell something loudly in public, it`s a bit outlandish. But during Cherry Blossom season this behavior is welcomed and embraced. Which is funny and awesome all at the same time.
We got to enjoy a small Hanami party in Tabuse town next door. We went to Hiroshima with Chris and Sarah and the blossoms were perfect. And I got to dress up in my kimono with my kimono class and travel to Miyajima Shrine Island and walk around. It was weird to be the only foreigner in a kimono with a bunch of Japanese women. I got my picture taken by a lot of people, strangers and mostly European tourists. It was an odd and very very strange experience. The kimono was amazingly tiring to wear, you have to keep good straight-back posture the whole time and the tiny zori shoes were killer to walk in. But I was successful! And it was really fun.
Back in March I got a call from a local English teacher, a British guy named Alex, who offered me a part time job at a local Jr. High School in Tabuse. I said yes and with it came a whole new experience of Japan, that included a CAR!!!!
First I had to reschedule many of my private English conversation classes. But most of my lessons have remained the same. But the sad part is I had to change my clubs.....yes my housewife activity clubs got limited down to one: tea ceremony. I stopped kimono and Tai Chi. Unfortunately, I couldn`t continue these lessons because my new work schedule interfered. But I ended those classes well and had some good last sessions. Of course I still see many people from those lessons and I had a wonderful time while I was still in them.
Now I am working and it`s really really really good. In so many ways. For one, I don`t feel worthless. It is so surprising how much a solid financial earning can boost your confidence. Especially in a housewife, working husband relationship. By the way, that relationship doesn`t work well at all for me and Isaac.....good to know I guess.
Anyways, the kids are really delightful and I am having a lot of fun working in the classroom and developing lessons. The kids are at a cute in between age that I really like. Some have hit puberty while others look like elementary school kids. It`s really funny and exciting. All the teachers are really nice and the experience of working as a teacher in Japan is really interesting. All in all, it was a good move.
Now, we have a car. Yes....sweet sweet freedom let it ring with the sound of my motor engine. This car is a genuine P.O.S. and Isaac and I adore it. Our world has expanded to a full circle and no longer just exists on railway line and it`s stations. All the places we have been driven to by our Japanese friends, we never knew if we could go there again, but now with "Freedom" we can. Having a car also boosts the overall feeling of our situation. We are no longer reverted 2 years olds in Japan. We now feel at least 10 or 12, especially as our vocab increases. It`s just wonderful. And I never knew I would love a car so much.
After our world cracked open with my paycheck and "Freedom" we have been feeling great. Isaac still struggles with his job, but even that has gotten a lot better. And all we can say is that we wish these small changes could have happened earlier. We really like it here now and are living fairly fulfilling lives.
But don`t worry too much. The decision to come back to the good ole US ofA remains and in fact we have some news: Our tickets have been purchased and on August 2nd, Isaac and I plus 4 Japanese kids will be flying to Chicago!!! More on this later.
While I have dropped two clubs Isaac has started two new activities: Taeko Drumming!! And Guitar!!!!!!!!!! Around the Easter party we got to know another ALT in town and his family. His name is Jason and he has a beautiful and cool Japanese wife and together they have 3 ADORABLE little girls 2,4, and 6 years old. Jason has been a great joy for Isaac because he has become Isaac`s guitar teacher. Every Tuesday night. We love Jason`s family and Isaac LOVES the guitar........he plays it everyday.....literally. All the time. He doesn`t stop. He plays it whenever he is home. Even when I try to talk to him. Or ask him questions. Or want to watch a movie. Sometimes he even takes it with him into the bathroom. He will be annoyed I wrote that, because it`s not actually true, but it feels true. Because he just plays the guitar all. the. time.
I joke about it, but seriously it`s great. He loves it, and he`s happy to play it. And being happy is really valuable so I really enjoy his enthusiasm for playing. He`s actually learned a lot and has even picked up some songs from our wedding. Very sweet. It`s just his infatuation with learning the song : "The Power of Love" by Celine Dion that my patience dwindles into rage.
Not only is Isaac into the guitar but he is also doing Japanese Taeko Drumming. Which is summed up into one word: Badass. Here`s a link to what Taeko Drumming is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_n-6KC2RdGQ
I would do Teako too but my private lessons keep me busy during the practice times. But that`s okay because I have gotten the rare chance to try my hand at drumming, and it was so fun!! Isaac is taking this class with 3 (now 4) friends. Chris and Sarah, our married friends from California who we have talked about before and Hiromi one of our adorable Japanese friends who just found out she`s having a baby boy! And the 4th is none other than Tiffany Mae Black!
That`s right ladies and gents our dear friend Tiffany is finally here which leads me to.......
MAY and GOLDEN WEEK!!!
On Wednesday April 28th Isaac and I took an overnight bus to Tokyo where we met Tiffany at Narita airport. Just like when my family came to visit me in December. Except this time Isaac and I felt like our heads were on a little better having adjusted to Japan much more since the winter. It was so weird to head back there since the last we had been was to pick up my family on Christmas day. When I think back to it, it seems like such a fog, a dream. But now I feel like I have woken up to my reality here and things seem much more clear and understandable. Culture shock is so interesting.
Anyways, Isaac and I got to the airport right on time but Tiffany didn`t show up for one hour. We were getting really really worried that something was wrong. That she may have missed her flight or couldn`t get through immigration. But finally her beautiful face appeared. And we all ran to each other laughing hugging and saying "Let`s never do this again. Promise?" It had been way too long!
The waiting was due to the airline losing Tiff`s luggage which was fine because it just meant less bags to carry! They did finally find it and mail it to us in Yanai after our trip so it all worked out perfectly. It was funny explaining to our Japanese friends that Tiffy`s luggage was lost by the airline because in Japan that NEVER happens. They were shocked and asked hurriedly which airline it was, and when we told them it was AirCanada they let out a sigh of relief and then asked: "Does that happen often?" We said....well yes. We told them that we even pack for a trip as if the airline may lose our luggage because it happens so often and they were shocked. Another small cultural difference. The reliable and polite service culture in Japan is something I am really going to miss.
That day we took Tiff to Shinjuku which is the main downtown district in Tokyo. The next day, we went everywhere. Asakusa Neighborhood for Sensoji Temple and Market. Shinjuku Neighborhood for the observation deck. Shibuya, Harajuku and Ripongi Neighborhoods along with Meiji Jingu Park. We were so tired but it was amazing. The day after that we walked around the Imperial gardens and then headed to the ferry port to catch our ferry to Kyushu. On this day I got very sick. I couldn`t breath and my body was aching. Luckily we were going to be on a ferry boat for 2 nights and one day, doing nothing but resting.
The ferry was small and we each had our own beds (bunk beds) with little curtains around them. But the food was only available from vending machines and my sickness got worse. I slept most of the day on the ferry while Isaac and Tiffany read. It was relaxing but I would have rather not have been sick. That day we realized that we had forgotten our driver`s licenses for the car we were planning on renting in Kyushu. We were planning on driving down to Mt. Aso, an active volcano, and camping in a park there........but Tiff`s luagge was gone with her tent inside and our car rental wasn`t going to work without our licenses....plus I was getting sicker and was shivering from a possible fever. Needless to say once we arrived in Kyushu on Monday we decided to head back to Yanai.
Luckily the weather was nice and luckily we live next to two huge tourist attractions in Japan: Hiroshima and Miyajima. Once we arrived at home and rested up from our trip we decided to go to Hiroshima for the flower festival and peace park. We even found a hotel that night and spent the night. The next day we slept in and walked around Hiroshima. Then on the way back home on Tuesday we stopped at the Myajima Island Shrine and went on a hike.....probably wasn`t the healthiest decision for me as the hike was long and strenuous. But it was Golden Week! And we HAD to do as much as we could.
On Wednesday we rested all day because the weekend ahead was packed as well. Friday we had a welcome dinner for Tiffany at a buffet restaurant in Hikari a couple towns over. Saturday we got the chance to have dinner at Jason`s home with his family. And on Sunday we got to go to Oshima Island and ride around on a friend`s boat and then have a cookout at The Kimura Family`s home with lots of friends.
This is how things have been going for us. From one day to the next our schedules are packed with things to do. Tiffany has been adjusting well and making lots of friends. Naturally everyone loves her and she even has taken over one of my English lessons and will be starting her own art lessons next week. She will only be here for two months but everyone sees what a rare chance it is to learn art and painting from a young and cute English speaking woman. So they are taking up the opportunity.
We have helped Tiff develop a plan to host 4 workshops for 4 hours each on portrait and landscape painting. I even get to model for her portrait class. haha! So far 6 people have signed up. And it`s going to be so much fun!
In the final weeks of May we have some fun BBQ lunches and outings with Japanese friends planned. We will have an English club dinner at our apartment with Isaac`s high school English Club, we will head to Hiroshima with Jason and his oldest daughter who loves art and therefore adores Tiffany. And I will get the pleasure of watching Tiffany and Isaac perform in a Taeko drumming performance on the 30th.
We are currently planning the trip to China and Korea also. We will be going June 25th-July6th. Tiffany has decided to head back to the states from Korea at the end of this trip. She will need to head back to replenish her bank account and reconnect with her loved ones before we come back in August and sweep her away on another trip for 2 weeks touring the states with the Japanese kids we are bringing back with us.
Until then we have just about every weekend planned which even includes a trip for me and Tiff to go to Kyoto and Nara for 3 days in June. Other than that we will most likely be staying in the Yamaguchi area having fun with our Japanese and ALT friends, making art and planning the trips coming up.
After Tiff leaves Isaac and I will have 3 1/2 weeks before we will be heading home. Just enough time to tie things up, pack, say our goodbyes and maybe see one more last site before we come back.
As it stands now I am, of course, excited to come home. But I am also becomming very nostalgic for this place. Things in the last two-three months since February have really changed and this situation has become a really good one for me and Isaac. Somtimes I wonder though if things look so positive because Isaac and I both know our home is only 2 months away. Or have we really started to fall in love with our life here? Maybe Isaac has a different story but all in all things are good, and seem to be heading to a good place.
I hope we can be more diligent about keeping this blog updated. Thanks for reading if you could get this far. Please email and let us know how things are going. I will leave you with an Engrish moment that I am sure you will all enjoy:
One day Isaac was at school having a meeting with his English club. They have 3 new members and Isaac thought it would be fun for each of the members (all girls) to pick an American/ Western name for themselves. He had printed off girl`s names from the 90`s that would have been popular when the girls in his English club were born. They all passed the sheet with the names on it around the group. They practiced saying the names, they asked about the names. They all looked over it extensively. Then it was finally time to decide on one.
Isaac went around the circle: what is your name? "I am Rachel." Another "I am Jessica." They had all chosen very feminie names: Dorothy, Carol, Elizabeth, Dawn, Kelly. And finally, it was the last student`s turn to decide.
She looked at Isaac, thinking deeply and then replied, " I am E- ree."
"I`m sorry, Evie?" Isaac asked.
"No, no. Eeeh- ree."
"Emily?" Isaac was sturggling to understand. What was it she was trying to say?
"No no no. Eh-dee."
"Eddie????" Isaac said slowly unsure he had said it right.
"Yes!" She replied happily.
Isaac was puzzled, was Eddie on his list of girl`s names? "Eddie??"
"Yes....." she paused and then said, "Eddie Murphy. I like Eddie Murphy."
Isaac looked at her shocked, smiling. He started to laugh. "Eddie Murphy??!!?" How did she know about Eddie Murphy he wondered.
"Yes." she said. "I am Eddie."
And so she was.
You may wonder how this 16 year old high school girl from the rural countryside of Japan happened upon the B-class American actor Eddie Murphy. But this is something we may never know. All we know is that this 16 year old high school girl`s chosen English name is Eddie, named after a middle aged American black man. In one word: awesome. You can be sure we will be watching Dr. Dolittle, any other reccommendations you have ae welcomed.
Precious Engrish Moments brought to you by:
Erin and Isaac
(We love you all)